I have replaced many electric stoves with gas stoves. The following is a discussion of the process to help you find the right stove and the right installer. A stove or range is a unit that has both and oven and burners on top (vs. a “cooktop” which has no oven). Over the years and many projects, the following process ensures the smoothest project saving time, energy, headaches and money.
What kind of stove or range you select has a huge influence on the cost of installation. Other aspects of your home will also affect the cost of installation.
- Weight. Stoves costing around $1,000 or lower are the most typical. These are the easiest to work on and be able to move around without damaging the floor. It is very important to let me know if you have a soft material (e.g. wood, linoleum) as this requires me to have something to protect the floor. Usually a large piece of cardboard from the box the unit came in is sufficient. For the most expensive (i.e. Wolf) the size and difficulty of moving the unit during the installation process requires extra people and/or expensive, specialized dolly which I do not have.
- Electrical. A little secret to save you a significant amount of money if you are buying a convection oven. The least expensive way to get convection is to use 120VAC for a fan to move air around the oven. The most expensive is to have 220VAC both heat the air AND move it around. For this reason, a 220VAC stove is going to cost you more for not only the purchase price and installation (assuming, usually the receptacle has to be moved) but also because heating air with electric is far costlier than heating with gas. The 220VAC receptacle (plug in) is large as is the metal conduit (aka Greenfield) that protects the wires to it. For this reason, an electrician should remove it prior to the gas line installation. After the gas line is installed, then the electrical installation can be completed.
- Gas supply.
- The “typical” stove mentioned above requires a gas pipe that can be extended from a typical gas pipe (1/2 inch). Most homes (especially in Minneapolis) the laundry area is directly below the kitchen sink. The vast majority of laundry areas have a ½ in gas line. This line can be extended up to the stove location. If the distance (total developed length = up + over + up etc.) is 15 feet or less, then an extra testing step is not required (in Minneapolis). All gas appliances have a “BTU Input rating” and a specification for the size if inlet at the stove. The large, expensive (i.e. Wolf) stoves have a ¾ in. inlet because they have a massive BTU input requirement. This typically requires a much more expensive modification to the gas piping in the home because one must find and extend a ¾ gas pipe.
- The gas line and valve need to be located behind the stove. The allowable area varies significantly from stove to stove. The manual (PDF file) many times DOES NOT ACCURATELY REPRESENT THE TRUE FEATURES OF THE STOVE. From long term experience I have learned that seeing the stove in your kitchen is the most efficient, least cost method of installing the gas line. The least expensive stoves are the easiest as they have the most available space (variability) to locate the gas line and valve. The most difficult stove I have had to connect to gas, even though it was 120VAC, required the gas to go into a space that was about ½ inch larger than the valve itself.
- BTU input. The very large (size, weight, cost) are also have a very high BTU input. I am not an expert in HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning) to know the details, but in general these stoves may require extra, special holes in the house for makeup air especially if a large vent hood is also part of the installation.
Information for me the gas installer;
- Do you have a typical stove?
- How far from the stove is the nearest gas line in the basement (aka total developed length)?
- Is the basement ceiling unfinished between the nearest gas line and directly below the stove? Is the ceiling in between; unfinished, are there any basement walls?
- What is the material of the kitchen floor?
For these reasons the following is the process that I have developed to save you costs (and headaches)
- Contact me about your proposed schedule, new stove, etc.
- Remove the old stove, 220VAC outlet and wires
- Bring the new stove into the kitchen
- I come in to install the gas line and connect the stove. A flexible line is used at the stove to allow the electrician to move the stove as necessary for the electrical work.
- Electrician returns to complete the installation.
If you are very enthusiastic, good with a tape measure, etc. marking on the wall or floor behind the stove with the location of the joists will save me a little time. As a reasonable person can understand by now it is impossible to answer the question (over the phone): How much does it cost to install a gas stove where my electrical stove is located? Hopefully the information here, the rest of my website and elsewhere gives you the confidence and comfort in choosing me for this task.